A Day and Night in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia

Flight on Saudi Airlines to Jeddah

We are off on our Asia trip to Thailand, Laos and the Philippines. The first leg of our flight is on Saudi Airlines to Bangkok via Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. We found a good flight deal on Saudi which is why we are taking this route to Bangkok. Our eleven hour flight aboard the Boeing 787 Dreamliner plane leaves Toronto at 6pm but commences boarding at 4:30pm. We have an overnight layover in Jeddah.

John and I took one 20 kilo checked bag and a carry-on sized bag which at the last minute we also decide to check. These bags go straight through to Bangkok and hopefully will be waiting for us. We each have a personal item (small backpacks) to take on the plane. This luggage leaves more room than usual but I still stuff and bring my neck pillow because I need it’s firmness for my numerous plane sleeping positions.

I wear a mask but John doesn’t. Being sensitive to cultural differences, I forego my eye mask that says “I sleep with strangers” and don the plain one that the airline hands out. Despite numerous screaming children, I’m asleep soon after take off.

John notices that as part of the pre-flight announcements a prayer is recited in Arabic over the public announcement system with the English version appearing on the video screen for each seat. The prayer is asking for a safe flight… hallelujah to that.

John also notes that at the back of the plane 3-4 rows of the middle seats have been removed to create a prayer room. The area is curtained off and inside is a tv screen that shows which direction Mecca is relative to the airplanes position. Throughout the flight passengers go to this room to pray.

As we enter Saudi Arabia airspace another announcement comes over in Arabic & English asking for the blessings of Allah.

There is an eight hour difference between Toronto and Jeddah.

When we land in Jeddah, I notice that many of the men have changed into white robes indicating they are travelling onwards on their pilgrimage to Mecca which is near Jeddah. Most women have their heads covered (hijab), and are wearing abayas or birkas. I stick out like a sore thumb.

The airport has the world’s largest airport aquarium with over 2000 fish.

Clothing Crisis in Jeddah

Grabbing an Uber at the airport we are at our hotel in twenty minutes. We have a great view of the small square across the street.

As expected the weather is hot (29°c) and sunny but a light breeze makes it bearable.

I am horrified to realize that although my top is packed in my personal item (backpack), my headscarf and skirt are in the carry-on back which was checked straight through to Bangkok. Although it is no longer illegal to go without, you get a lot of stares. I improvise and wear my 3/4 sleeve t-shirt on my head.

It’s now afternoon so we head for a walk to the waterfront. The streets are practically empty. We had read that most people head out after sunset. We don’t find many crosswalks in the area which doesn’t make for pleasant strolling so we head back to the hotel where John naps for an hour (he didn’t sleep at all on the plane).

Sunset on the Corniche

We grab an Uber and head to Jeddah Corniche to watch the sunset and see King Fahad’s Water Spring/Fountain. This is the world’s largest fountain.

It seems like everyone comes out for sunset. Jeddah Corniche (a waterfront promenade on the Red Sea) is busy. John and I stand out in our coloured clothing. Most people are wearing all white (men) or black birkas (women). The women all have their hair covered.

Al-Balad Historic District

Taking another Uber, our next stop is Al-Balad Historic District. This district of coral-stone buildings and shops is a UNESCO World Heritage site. There are many narrow lanes, old mosques, old homes and souks that are hundreds of years old. It was founded in the seventh century. We get lost in its streets as we look for the Makkah and Bab Jadid gates.

There are a lot of textile shops filled with colourful fabrics. John and I wonder who are buying all these fabrics because most women wear black birkas.

Supper Local Style

We have supper in an Arabic seafood restaurant. We first are taken to the freezers at the entrance where we choose from fish and shrimp…we choose wild shrimp. Then we go upstairs where there are all these red shag carpeted, enclosed rooms with curtained doors…and no furniture. Only a package of Kleenex .John and I leave our shoes at the door, go in and sit on the floor. Eventually a waiter comes in and puts down a plastic square in the middle of the room. He returns with a plate of lettuce leaves, cut lemons and two whole green onions and three bowls of dips. Then he returns with a large platter of rice and two spoons. Finally he comes this a huge platter of bbq’ed, unpeeled shrimp.

It turns out that we eat straight off of the shared platters. The shrimp are delicious. They are gently spiced to perfection.

It’s 9:10pm and we are exhausted. On our Uber ride back to our hotel, I realize why we didn’t find any crosswalks; people just walk into the middle of the road and vehicles drive around them.