Abhaneri and the Puffing Granny
Adventure Time on the Local Bus
I’m walking up the many flights of stairs after breakfast and I notice a number of dead bees on the ground. I start counting them as I walk into our room. I’m surprised to see a man taking the sheets off the bed and I say “What are you doing here?’.
He looks equally surprised and then I notice that I’m on the wrong floor and I start to laugh….and laugh. I’m still laughing by the time I arrive at my own room, one floor up.
The bus fills up as we stop in different places. We notice that one elderly woman has a catheter in her hand.
About three hours later, Garima herds us off at our stop…which is at the side of the road. Within five minutes, two tuk tuks arrive. Ours has a cracked windshield and at one point the driver is looking at his foot while driving.
We are in a rural, agricultural area. We pass lots of small villages, shacks, tents and produce stands…not to mention wandering cows, goats and pigs with the odd camel thrown in for good measure.
Abhaneri Niwas Resort
Our accomodations, the Abhaneri Niwas Resort is pure heaven with its green grounds and absence of blaring car horns.
I practically explode with fits of delight when I see our suite. We have a couch and two chair sitting area, a king size four poster canopy bed, a huge bathroom with vanity area and jacuzzi tub, a huge balcony and a delightful cushioned alcove surrounded by trees.
The buffet lunch is delicious and has a sprouted grain salad amongst many other hot and cold options. The chef here used to be head chef in a five star restaurant. It shows.
We have 2 1/2 hours of free time when we finish lunch. We all immediately head back to our rooms. Two wasps fly around one of the windows. I try to humanely set them free and get stung in the finger. It hurts at first but the pain quickly dissipates. I leave them to their fate with John.
I lay in the alcove and read a book. Sun dapples through the trees surrounding the windows. A dove sits in a nest directly in front of me. The cooing of doves, woo wooing of pigeons, chirping of birds and distant calls of peacocks and parrots lull me to sleep.
In the Steps of Batman
We meet at 3:30 for an orientation walk. Abhaneri is a small village so we don’t have far to go. We walk single file down the side of the road. Despite having the whole road to himself, a loan motorcyclist still feels a need to lean on his horn.
I am blown away when we enter Chand Baori Step Well. This is the largest step well in India and is approximately 1,500 years old. It’s hard to believe that a structure of this magnitude is built in the middle of nowhere. The Bat Man movie “Dark Knight Rises” shot some scenes here. It is said that this place is haunted.
I feel dizzy looking into its depths. Bright green Alexandrine Parakeets as well as pigeons watch from above. A mish mash of gorgeous ancient sculptures line the exterior of the site. Many of the figures similar to Cambodia’s Apsaras.
Harshshad Mata Temple and Puffing Granny’s Village
Crossing through numerous animal gates, we visit the 8-9th century Harshshad Mata Temple. This is dedicated to the goddess of happiness I notice lots of different ways of hair pushed into the crevices of one particular sculpture at the back of the temple.
Many green Alexandrine Parakeets are hanging out and we have great views of children playing cricket in a field below and the village market on the other side.
Our guide takes us through the small village. People come out of their homes to greet us. Children are very excited. One child brings out her tiny baby sister and all the women in the family pose for us. Meanwhile, grannie happily sits in the corner smoking her marijuana pipe. She is content to let us take a picture with her.
We pass by pretty painted doors, cow patties moulded for fuel drying in the sun and tiny shops.
We watch a craftsman make gorgeous bangles from tree sap. Very cool.
We while away the evening chatting around an outdoor fire. Flocks of parrots squawk as they fly overhead to their nighttime nesting spot. A young puppy plays around our feet. He is the hotels puppy but they haven’t named him. We christen him, Mowgli. There was another delicious buffet supper.
I fall asleep to the distant cries of peacocks.