Circling Efate Island, Vanuatu
Heading Out on a Car Trip
Today is November 11, Remembrance Day. It is raining again when we wake up. That seems to be the trend; raining in the morning and clearing before lunch.
We pack our bathing suits and snorkel gear and get into our bright orange clown car and start our drive to circle around the island.
There is one main ring road that circles the edge of the island. It is about 140km (about 3 hours) around the island. The sun now is beaming and it is hot, hot, hot.
Most of the people live in Port Vila. The rest of the island is sparsely populated and covered in jungle rain forest. The only land animals on the island 
(besides bats) are domesticated ones that had been brought over. There are lots of cows, goats, dogs, cats and chickens. There are crabs, lizards, birds, turtles, dolphins, whales and an abundance of marine life that are native to the island.
Port Vila has a few bigger grocery stores and the rest of the island gets dry goods in small, independently run stores and fruit and vegetables from people with tables set up at the side of the road. We also see people selling bread this way.
Tanna Coffee
Our first stop is to a coffee producer called Tanna Coffee. Tanna is an active volcanic island in Vanuatu that grows coffee beans on the mountainside and then sends the beans to Port Vila for roasting. They show us how they roast the beans and let us smell the different kinds. I wish I could send a video version of the coffee smell in the air because it is heavenly. We have a cup before heading on.
Roads and Houses
Despite the road being the main one for the island, it is one of the worst roads I have ever driven on. There are huge potholes everywhere. We often have to drive onto the side of the road or into the opposite lane to get around them. Sometimes we just have to go through them. Let’s just say, we are not going anywhere quickly.
People live modestly here however they seem happy and are so friendly. Almost everybody waves and calls hello as we pass. I’m waving so much that I feel like I’m the Queen in an orange carriage.
Waterfall
Our next stop is a waterfall. We pay the equivalent to $17.00 CAD pp to get in but upon entering we find out that that is only to the pond at the bottom which is owned and run by local people. Apparently if we want to climb to see the the falls we need to pay another $23 CAD pp because that part is owned by Chinese people. The price seems excessive so we skip it.
Survivor: Vanuata
We make our way around the volcanic island and through more potholes passing many spectacular views . Click here for a short video. Then we get to Port Havannah where they shot Survivor Vanuatu in 2004. A dog cools off in the crystal clear eaters. We walk along the beach before continuing on.
Vanuata WWII
We pass a small WWII war museum with a sign that says “Rust In Peace”. Vanuatu played an important role During the war. During WWII, The US needed a base between Australia and Hawaii to refuel, repair ships and stage troops. There were numerous airfields and ports throughout Vanuatu. After the war, the US left equipment and dumped millions of dollars of equipment into the sea on Vanuatu’s largest island which is now a popular dive site.
Top Rock
Our next stop is Top Rock Lookout and Caves. We heard it’s a good place to snorkel. We drive down a dirt path through a tiny village with lots of waving people. Once we get to the entrance, there is a fee to get in but it is reasonable. I am also able to rent a life jacket. We walk up and down through rainforest to get to the reefs. We hear a dog having an interaction with pigs in the forest. The pigs don’t sound happy.
We have the snorkel area to ourselves and it is fabulous. There is a cave on the side and the fish are varied and colourful. Anywhere else, this would be packed with tourists but we are all alone. Priceless.
There are gorgeous bright pink corals. Not to mention orange corals. I am delighted to see new growth on them.
I do not want to leave this aquatic wonderland but the afternoon is getting late and we don’t want to be trying to circumnavigate the potholes in the dark.
Driving Back
This is such a beautiful, unspoiled island. It may not have the infrastructure but that is part of the appeal. It is a bit off the grid. I love it.
We see cows grazing everywhere, amongst the palm trees, in some fields and along the side of the roads. We also see pigs, goats and chickens running around.
We get back to the resort just after 5:00pm. I have just enough time to shower since we preordered our dinner for 6:00pm.
