Aphrodite, Apollo and Knights…Oh My!

Morning with the Goddess

The weather is already quite warm and its only 9am. I love mornings because the whole day is still ahead.

We stop for gas. It’s about $2.10 Canadian per litre for regular unleaded gas. Yikes. Suddenly gas prices in Canada don’t seem so bad.

Mythically, Cyprus is the birthplace of Aphrodite and we are off to the place where she was born from the sea foam at ‘Aphrodite’s Rock’ also known as ‘Petra tou Romiou’. It is one of the most photographed places in Cyprus. It does not disappoint. The legend is that Cronus cut off the genitals of his father Uranus and threw them in the sea. The resulting splashes caused the sea to foam and Aphrodite emerged floating on the water. The winds then pushed her to Cyprus where she came ashore by the large rock that now bares her name.

The sun shines off the water like diamonds and the clear aqua water is warm. Graham climbs the highest of the rocks.

John wants me to go into the water and then walk onto the beach so he can videotape his Aphrodite emerging from the sea… I politely decline. 

There are ribbons and masks tied to the scrubby bushes on the beach…I guess to symbolize peoples love stories. I’m not going to tie on my mask and the only other thing I have is a used kleenex. After much thought, the only thing John and I leave are our footprints in the sand.

We drive to another lookout over the birthplace before heading off to the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates.

Apollo’s Sanctuary

We drive through one of the small enclaves still owned by the British government.  There are several of these areas in Cyprus which are British military bases  mixed amongst normal towns and historical/religious sites. There are signs posted prohibiting photography near the bases.

The Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates is small but really interesting. Originally dedicated to a male fertility god with no name  it was later identified with Apollo (during Hellenistic times)  and then by the name of Hylates (a forest protector of nature).

Portions of the remaining ruins give you an idea of its past glory.

Almost right next door is the stadium constructed in the 2nd century AD. It is longer than a football field but narrower. Chariot races, running, high jump, long jump, wrestling and javelin competitions were held here.

Ancient Kourion

Just a short drive away is the archeological site of Ancient Kourion which  is dramatically situated on top of a cliff overlooking the sea.

It is a very large site and the limestone ruins seem to glow in the sun. The site spans many centuries.

Mosaics in the Eustolios House (408-450 AD) are so clear. The entrance floor greeting translates to “Enter to thy good fortune, and may thy coming bless this house”

The site has a theatre that held 3000 people. During one small portion of the 3rd century it was used for animal fights but was later restored to its original use.

The site also has ruins of baths, the agora and houses of both rich and average citizens. It is easy to spend  several hours here. The sun is very hot and I can only imagine how hot it would be in the height of summer.

Kolossi Castle

We are now heading to medieval Kolossi castle. Used for its strategic location by the Knights of St John, then later by the Knights Templar, this castle is three floors in height…I decide to walk up the narrowly, spiraling stairs to the top for the view from the ramparts.

Limassol

We are hungry so its time to go into the city of Limassol. I see a sign for the Cyprus Wine Museum… John speeds past. An interesting note, Cyprus has the oldest named wine in the world. It’s called Commanderie.

We are passing many citrus groves on our way into the city.

Buildings are taller in Limassol. It’s a busy place. We park at the marina car park. The tires make loud squeaking noises on the ultra shiny floors. Now its off to explore.

We are in the harbour area. Two cruise ships are moored offshore and two more are docked at the pier. Sure looks like the cruise lines are back in business. By the time we walk to the Old Town,  Graham and I are famished but cannot agree on a restaurant. Finally John and I sit down at a Cypriot restaurant while Graham goes off in search of a kabob. John and I order the seafood platter for two, a beer and a water. The beer is the size of a wine bottle. I’m so hungry, I can eat the table leg or one of the many cats roaming the street…just kidding, I do not endorse eating cats.
 
There is definitely a lot of food on the plate. Graham shows up as we are eating and helps eat the fries and bread. I am stuffed.

We head to the medieval Limassol Castle. It has a museum inside which is very interesting.