Caves, Hikes, Lagoons and Eating Bugs
Morning Market
Early in the morning we wake to the sounds of action outside our window; an early morning produce market is in full swing.
We have breakfast at the hotel and head out to see the market. It is cool (18°C) and I need a sweater.
An old man at the Nam Song Cafe is feeding his dogs, cats and chickens and all seem to be living in harmony.
Hike to Phapoungkham Viewpoint
Today we have rented a truck and driver tour the area. These trucks are everywhere in Vang Vieng and are essentially pickup trucks with a roof and bench seating in the back. No seat belts of course.
Our driver picks us up 9:40am. In hindsight we probably should have left earlier because it is already 25C°. We climb in back and hang on sd we drive over rough patches in the road.
John has mapped out 5 places to visit during our tour. Our first stop is the Phapoungkham Cave and Viewpoint. We plan to hike to the top.
These type of mountains are called Karst…limestone that water has eroded away to give them a unique shape. The climb up consists of uneven limestone and you really need to watch your footing. Some of the rocks are sharp. I am not thrilled, but still managing. At one point you have to crawl or squat walk through rocks to get to see one of the Buddhas. I am even less thrilled. Then about 1/3 of the way up, we get to a point that has flight after flight of narrow ladder like stairs. After doing one of these flights I see there are more to come… I call it quits.
Our driver magically appears. He must be keeping track of us by running up and down the mountain like a flipping billy goat…and based on his white hairs, I think he’s older than me.
In my panicked state, I accept his assistance back down the stairs until I join a couple from Montreal for the remainder of the descent.
Meanwhile John climbs to the top. Here is John’s experience:
It is a diffcult climb with many steep sections where bamboo handrails or ropes have been installed to help pull yourself up. Eventually I reach the top with a beautiful view of the mountains and valleys. For some reason someone has installed a small airplane at the top that you can sit in. Also still under construction is a statue of King Kong. On a nearby peak sits a unicorn! The climb down is just as difficult… its a little easier on my cardio system but my knees are getting a real workout.”
Blue Lagoon 3
After a bumpy drive through lush countryside, we arrive to Blue Lagoon 3. There are 6 Lagoons in the vicinity. This one is supposed to be one of the quieter ones but it looks pretty busy to me.
The water is cool and John goes in. We grab some lunch and drinks before heading to our next stop.
Nam Xay Viewpoint
We arrive at Nam Xay. It is now the hottest part of the day…well over 30°. I read the description in our travel notes; it says a taxing 30 minute hike. I don’t like the sound of that.
We buy our tickets and start the steep trek up. The sand makes this slippery. Steep, uneven, slippery…yep, not for me. I’m outta here.
I wait for John at the bottom while sampling their ice cream selection.
Here is John’s experience from the top:
“This climb is more difficult than the first. I’m huffing & puffing as I reach the top. It’s also much hotter now so I’m dripping sweat. Another breathtaking view greets me. On this peak a motorcycle has been installed… must be a Laotian custom to place big things on their mountain tops. I climb onto the motorcycle for my Instagram photo shot. After a short rest it’s back down again only I slice my finger on one of the guide cables so am bleeding all the way down.
At the bottom I can’t find Kimberly. I call her phone but get no answer. I ask our driver if he has seen her. We both start searching for her. The driver shouts and points… there she is, fast asleep at a table of Chinese tourists.”
Phu Kam Cave and Lagoon 1
Phu Kam Cave and Blue Lagoon 1 are in the same location.
There are all kinds of stalls selling produce and snacks on the way to the lagoon. I notice a number of stalls selling these fat worm-like things in water. They are still alive. I think they are a delicacy. Click here to see a short video.
The lagoon is packed with large groups of Chinese tourists… much busier than Lagoon 3… with loud music playing and people jumping into the water from a high platform.
We head over to the cave. It looks quite steep. “I’m not sure about this” I say to John.
“It’s only 150 metres up”, John says.
A Chinese lady (tourist) is slipping and crawling down. “No, No, Bad” she says to me. She shakes her head and makes a cross with her arms in case I don’t understand her discouragement.
” That’s it. I’m going down”, I tell John.
The Chinese tourist nods her approval as she sees me turnaround. John continues to the cave.
Here is John’s experience.
“This is my 3rd climb today and thankfully it’s not as high as the others. I enter the cave, it’s quite large with an offering table and orange robed stalagmite in the main part of the cave. It’s refreshingly cool inside and I head out for the sweaty climb down.”
Tham Chang Cave
The ride back seems even bumpier than going. There are often cows walking on the country roads. The landscape is really quite lovely.
Our final stop is Tham Chang Cave. It is now late in the afternoon. We cross the river on a bamboo bridge to reach the cave. “The entrance to the cave is only 150 cement steps up” John says.
Well spaced, flat stairs…I can do this. No problem.
As we get to the top, we can see eleven hot air balloons and many paragliders taking off for sunset rides. Beautiful. A Japanese tourist has taken pictures of John and I and emails them to us.
We go into the cave. It is massive with many lit up pathways and a viewpoint over Vang Vieng. Click here for a short video.
We spend 30 minutes wandering around then head out. There is a lower wet cage that you have to go into the water, sit on an innertube and pull yourself through on a rope. Exhausted, John and I forego this experience. After a long day our driver drops us back at the hotel.
And the Appetizer is Bugs
We go for dinner at a nearby restaurant. I notice that they have Bamboo Insect Pupae which I order. The waitress comes back and says they are all out so I order the Fried Cicada Pupae as an appetizer. The plate that comes is huge. They are actually quite good; crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside. John and I both order Pad Thai as well. Click here for a short video.