In Search of Leopards

Early Morning Safari at Yala National Park

I was so tired from the two safaris yesterday that I fell asleep before blogging.

I wake up on my own at 4:55am. After three safaris I’ve recognized that it’s best to tie back my hair if I don’t want it to get knotted.

Our guide, Bindu, has been doing safaris for thirty one years. Today he decides to take the back entrance into Yala National Park. It is 6am when we enter the park. Many jeeps are lined up to get in but we just breeze through.

I make the mistake of taking a sip of coffee from our packed breakfast as we bounce down the dirt road and it splashes up my nostrils and down my face. I can tell Bindu is trying hard not to laugh. 

I am not good understanding accents at the best of times and I make a point not to ask someone to repeat themselves more than three times. Bindu spots a bird and says the name. I say “Beaver Bird?” He repeats what he said. I reply ” Beaver Bird?” He repeats it a third time. John pokes me and whispers, “Weaver Bird”.

Being seated high up in a safari jeep can be startling at times. Besides bouncing around on uneven, heavily rutted roads, the jeep tilts vicariously on its side. And we have no working seat belts.

Sometimes Bindu even reverses at a fairly rapid pace when he thinks he sees something.

When searching, every sense is on edge. I’m afraid to divert my eyes in case I miss something. Bindu alerts us to sounds coming from deer and monkeys, indicating that something walking in the forest scares them.

As the sun inches higher, our chances of seeing leopards dwindle. I am fine with that. Sometimes it’s the anticipation of the chase. If you are successful every time, it takes away the exhilaration when you do spot the rare find.

We watch monkeys moving through the trees. We also spot crocodiles, deer, peafowl, water buffalo, monitor lizards, monkeys and numerous birds…all the usual suspects.

John gets a picture of a monkey’s bottom that looks surprisingly like an old man’s face. Many people see pictures in clouds but my husband sees them in monkey bums.

Sometimes we pass people who have fallen asleep in their jeeps. Either tired from safaris or bounced to sleep by the bumps.

We have been bounced around in the Jeep for over four hours. Bindu parks the jeep slightly off track and we take turns having a bathroom break behind a bush.

Afternoon at the Wild Lotus Yala

It is very hot by the time we head back. As we enter the Wild Lotus I see someone run in to tell the staff we have arrived. Roshan quickly comes out and greets us with the cool wet face towels. The scene reminds me a bit of Tattoo greeting guests at the beginning of a  “Fantasy  Island”episode.

After a much needed shower, we rinse the dust from our clothes and sit down to a delicious lunch of Sri Lankan specialties.

Afterwards I can’t resist trying out our indoor slide and taking advantage of the hammocks. Later I try the big swing and we cool off in the pool. Ok, and there is my attempt on the trampoline. Now that can’t be a pretty sight.

There is so much to explore on the property. We check out the bone tree that has a collection of crocodile, water buffalo and elephant bones and skulls.

It’s now late afternoon and the temperature has dropped a bit. We head out the back gate and walk towards the lake. A herder is bringing cows and water buffalo in for the night. We walk carefully to ensure we don’t step in cow or buffalo patties. The resort dogs join us on our walks. The air and surroundings are filled with birds of all sorts. Everything is cast in golden light.

At the Fish Pond

Back on the resort grounds I head to the goat and chicken area which is near the fish pond. I am quickly joined by the owner’s father, Jayantha, who is a retired safari guide and a free soul.

He quickly warns me that today there have been two crocodiles hanging out in the murky fish pond; and one of them is a big croc. Jayantha runs around the pond edges but the crocs are either submerged or moved on. We don’t take any chances and stay away from the waters edge.

Nearby the chickens, guinea fowl and ruling rooster are doing their thing. I ask Jayantha if the chickens ever get eaten by the crocodiles. He says, “Yes, when they wander too close to the waters edge”.

We both start laughing when I play my clucking chicken cell phone ring tone and the chickens get all excited, especially the rooster who runs all over the place looking for the mysterious bird.

After checking out the goats, I head back to the villa. The air is filled with all sorts of bird songs and little birds flit in and out of the huge magenta bougainvillea.

Sunset from the Water Tower

We climb the property’s very tall water tower for a 360° view of the area. It is breathtaking in the setting sun.

Romantic Bonfire Dinner

Tonight the staff have set up our dinner table in an open area by a huge bonfire, and four torches on high poles. John and I dine under the stars on a delicious Thai meal to the chorus of crickets, frogs and the odd sleepy bird call. We look at pictures in the fire and check out the stars with John’s stargazing app. We see many constellations including Pisces and Orion with his belt. Pure magic.

Too soon, the day ends and we head to bed.