Lake Bunyonyi and On to Rwanda
Wednesday – Leaving Bwindi
It is very cool and overcast when we leave our resthouse accomodations in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. My favourite t-shirt is still slightly damp from the other day so I hang it over the suitcase in the back to dry.
The manager of the resthouse and her five month old, 
absolutely adorable baby, hitch a ride with us for 1.5 hours on the dirt road until we reach a paved road where they catch a bus to Kabale town for some shopping. The bus takes about 40-60 minutes. She and the baby will return with all the shopping the same day!
We drive through beautiful countryside. We pass many people going about their daily lives; carrying water, walking places, attending a goat sale and so much more. There are always people walking along the road.
Lake Bunyonyi
We arrive at a boat launch on Lake Bunyonyi. We join another guide for a boat tour and hike on one of the lake’s islands.
Lake Bunyonyi is the third deepest lake in the world at 900 metres. It is the second deepest lake in Africa. It was created when volcanic eruptions blocked a river causing the water to fill a deep valley between the surrounding volcanoes. The lake is 26km long and 7km wide with a total area of 61 square km. There are 29 islands in the lake.
Farming is the main occupation around the lake. We see so many terraced plots. Terracing helps staunch erosion during the rains. Eucalyptus trees, imported from Australia, are planted on hillsides. They are popular trees because they grow fast and very tall. They have many uses including material for poles, medicine, logs for bridges, timber, shade and firewood.
The weather now is really turning. It is overcast and getting colder. It starts to drizzle. We put on our rain pants and jackets.
The guide points out numerous birds including cormorants, kingfishers and the very shy Malachite Kingfisher. We see a number of colourful Grey Crowned Cranes which are Uganda’s national bird.
We pass a very small island called Punishment Island with nothing on it but grass. Up until the 1940s unmarried women who got pregnant (a big no-no at the time) were taken to this island and left to die. They would 
either die of starvation or drown trying to swim to shore. Some were saved by fishermen looking for a woman/wife or poor men or slaves who could not afford to pay the dowry required in a regular marriage.
Another island hass a lodge/resort with free roaming zebra and Impala
A Wet Visit to a Village on an Island
We stop at a small hilly island to have lunch in the village at the top. As we start to climb the skies open up. Fortunately we have rain pants, rain jackets and waterproof hiking boots but it is still cold & uncomfortable. I am so glad that I brought my hiking poles.
It is a twenty minute, very steep hike over red clay, rocks and tree roots. A river of rain water is running down from the top. The only thing we can do about it is laugh.
When we arrive in the village, a lady and her son serve us an authentic meal in her living room. The room is very dark because they need to save electricity. It did help when she opened the drapes.
The meal is quite good. There is a fried spinach dish, baked beans, potatoes (they call them Irish potatoes), sweet potatoes and a peanut sauce.
She then serves a delicious herbal tisane (similar to tea) made from herbs but they don’t know the English words for the herbs.
The rain stops by the time we leave the village. Even though it is still overcast, we have beautiful views of the other islands in the lake. Click here for a short video of the view.
Traumatic Incident
When we return to the docks, Bosco is waiting for us. He has just had his van cleaned by some workers at the dock.
Of course we visit the very clean washrooms which are a short walk away from the path.
I have some trouble closing the thick wooden door of my stall in the women’s washroom because it may have expanded in the rain.
Upon completing my business, I try to get out but I can’t. After five minutes of pushing the door with no success, I finally start yelling for John and Bosco. No one comes. I’m starting to go hoarse. I think about sliding under or trying to get above the door but the space is large enough to make you think you might get through but small enough to get stuck in and goodness knows how long it would take before John and Bosco come looking for me. They could be down there playing cards for all I know. Finally I take a page from the FBI series ( I’ve been watching (Bones) and I start kicking the door. It opens (undamaged) on the third try. I wish I could say the same for my pride.
“It took you long enough”, John comments upon my return to the van. Apparently they had not heard my yelling, or so they say.
Travellers Rest
We head to Kisoro, which is a town in Uganda that borders both Rwanda on one side and Democratic Republic of Congo on the other. It is a busy town with lots of action going on.
We check into a cute little hotel called Traveller’s Rest. This adorable, very elderly, dog is in reception. This is the first time I’ve been able to pet a dog since we’ve arrived in Uganda. We have seen hardly any dogs in Uganda.
After checking out of our room, the dog joins John and I by the fireplace in the lounge. Over a beer and glass of wine, we chat to a Dutch tourist who we have seen with his group in some of the other lodges we stayed in. His group has a very similar itinerary to ours. We look at each other’s pictures. His photo of a nursing mother gorilla is the one I have in my last post.
The dog follows me to the dining room where we have an enjoyable buffet supper. I mention to Bosco that I need to get my favourite t-shirt after supper.
I forget.
After a very frustrating attempt to post my gorilla blog post, I head to bed.
T-Shirt Found
We head to Rwanda today. For the remainder of our trip, Bosco has hired a driver named Vincent because Bosco is not comfortable driving on the right side of the road. In Uganda, as a former British colony, they drive on the left.
After breakfast I ask Bosco about my favourite t-shirt. He says it should be in the van.
When I check out of the hotel and go to the parking lot, I see Vincent washing the van. They wash the van inside and out a lot because of all the red dust that comes from the roads.
Upon closer inspection, I notice that Vincent is washing the van with my favourite t-shirt. Ahhhhhh! He found it on the floor of the van and thought it was a rag.
Border Crossing
The border between Uganda and Rwanda is about ten minutes away. We pass a huge market filled with people.
I can see the Ugandan side of the nearby volcano. Dian Fossey did her work with the gorillas on the Rwandan side.
As I mentioned earlier, mountain gorillas live only in Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Because of all the unrest and gunfire in Congo, a lot of those gorillas have moved into Uganda. Uganda is home to well over 60% of the world’s mountain gorilla population. Rwanda charges $1500 US for a one day gorilla trekking permit compared to Uganda’s $800 US. Rwanda has fewer gorillas so charges more as they have a limited supply of permits.
Without our guide the border crossing would be rather confusing. There is no signage directing you what to do or where to go. We park on the Ugandan side and Vincent goes to do paperwork. John, Bosco and I then walk across the border. In Rwanda a man standing by the road looks at our passports and then directs us to a hand washing station where we wash our hands. Next we have our temperatures taken by a man with a handheld machine that he points at our foreheads. From the signage, it appears that Monkeypox is a concern.
Next we are pointed to another building where we line up at a window labelled ‘Arrivals’. A customs officer looks at our passports and asks what hotel we will be staying at. He then informs us we need to exit Uganda first and must line up at another window labelled ‘Exit-Uganda’ although we are actually in Rwanda now. We do as directed and get our passports stamped at that window and then return to the Arrivals window for more stamps. Meanwhile Vincent has driven the van and our luggage across the border. Our luggage is x-rayed and searched and we are done. We clear the border in about thirty minutes.
Driving into Rwanda
We love watching the people going about their daily lives. I’m amazed at how much one can actually carry on a bike or motorcycle.
Being in a volcanic area, lava stones are used in many of the fences. All the volcanoes around here are dormant except for one that is in the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Lake Ruhondo
We drive on a red dirt road until we get to a busy place where many boats are docked. The skies look threatening. We are doing a cruise and stopping at an island for a hike and to see dancing. We are told that we don’t need our hiking boots or poles. I state that if it is raining, I do not want to do a hike.
It is just us and a fellow driving the boat and the captain who acts as a guide. The guide doesn’t really give much information. The lake is 100 metres deep and has seven islands. Not really any animals to see. We do see a few birds including an ibis.
We stop at an island that looks like a steep climb. The guide says we can hike up and see dancers. It looks steep. I say I would rather skip the hike.
Suddenly a large group of people come running down the hill and start impromptu dancing. I feel a bit like prey that is being lured onto the island, to give out tips. I have already seen a lot of dancing. I feel a bit manipulated.
Against my better judgement I agree to the hike. The guide holds my hand because it is a bit challenging to get to the top.
The view is pretty. The guide leads us through the town. I click a picture of some baby pigs. We continue on. A women who apparently owns the pigs comes running behind yelling “money, money, money”. I tell the guide I want to head back to the boat. I hate being put into these kinds of situations.
We meet Bosco and Vincent back at the dock and drive to our accomodations at the Migano Hotel & Cafe in Musanze. We have a nice, filling lunch and check into our room.
We chill for the rest of the day.
