Mountains, Vineyards and Beaches

Woman standing by the sign to a winery

Up and Up, Into the Mountains

Today we head into the Troodos Mountains which are over 1,952 metres high and located in the centre of the island.

dry sandy and hilly countryside with trees and brush growing here and there As the car climbs, the road narrows to two lanes. We go through small villages with bright bougainvillea cascading over the walls, people picking olives in the fields and a grandma in her kerchief holding vigil on her balcony.

The roads snakes it’s way into a valley. We pass vineyards and I spot a directional sign for the winery whose product I tasted last night. I’m excited.

Tasting the Wines

Man and woman toasting at a wooden table The road narrows to one serpentine lane…and we arrive into the tiny town of Lemona and our first winery.

A man reaching up to hold a bunch of juicy grapes An arch of sweet smelling jasmine beckons us into the Tsangrides Winery. An older gentleman (probably the owner) greets us. He only speaks Greek so he retrieves a young woman from the back.

We seat ourselves on the outdoor stone porch which is covered by grapevines and bunches of extremely plump and juicy red grapes.

The jasmine wafts on the breeze as Graham and I start our six tasting flights. John only takes tiny sips from our glasses because he is driving.

I try one of the smoothest, dry white wines I’ve had in a while; Xynisteri Dry. We buy two bottles of the white and a bottle of cab…and its on to the next winery..

The roads are getting higher, narrower and steeper. The GPS keeps telling us to turn right which would send us hurtling into the abyss. I’m glad I’ve had a few glasses of wine to calm my nerves through all these hairpin turns. The nasty GPS woman wants us to do a U turn on a road no wider than a G string. John is doing great…Graham is navigating us to our next winery.

Woman and man standing in front of a winery made from stones

Perched on the edge of the mountains, the Kolios Winery is in a dramatically placed position. The tasting room is encased in glass to give maximum views of the scenery below. I see what looks like an ancient ruin below us.

I am enjoying the wines. Some of the grapes (such as Spourtiko and Maratheftiko), I have never heard of. Our tasting hostess is very friendly and helps me learn how to say “thank you”in Greek. For some reason she keeps laughing every time I say it.

I want to go to more wineries but am outvoted by John and Graham who want to go to the beach…probably for the best since I’m feeling a bit tipsy and the car trunk is filled with wine purchases.

Despite the curves and sheer drops, I am much calmer on the drive…I must be getting used to it.

We drive through an abandoned village high in the mountains…a ghost village. Makes me wonder why the people left.

Coral Bay Beach

beach with white upbrellas and blue loungers on the sand

John and Graham skilfully, guide the car down the mountain and we make our way to Coral Bay Beach which is considered one of the nicest beaches in the area. I’m pleased that the beach snack stand had large salads. John and Graham have hot dogs. We spend the remainder of the afternoon people watching.

It’s an hour till sunset so we hop back into the car and we’re heading to a restaurant by a picturesque ship wreck. Banana palms, lemon and orange trees, cacti and villas (big and small) line the seaside road.

The Shipwreck

a large ship wrecked on the sand

The shipwreck is the Edro III, a 260 ft long cargo ship that was caught in a storm in 2011 silhouette of a wrecked ship on the beach with the sun setting in the background and pushed up against the shore where it remains clutched against the craggy rocks. A few people are flying drones over and around the ship. They buzz like demented mosquitoes.

We’re all still stuffed from our late lunch so we choose to forego supper at the nearby restaurant and grab a front row seat on the rocks for the sunset.