On to Jeonju

Sick, Sick, Sick

Not every vacation goes perfectly. I haven’t blogged for 3 days as John and I have both been ill. The evening of October 17th in Busan, South Korea we began feeling really sick with fever and sore throats.. The next morning we tried finding a walk-in clinic near our apartment but it was next to impossible because most people only speak Korean. Finally we gave up and went to a hospital one subway station away.

We went to a reception marked “Emergency” and were told by a man who spoke some English that it was a very very expensive hospital and and the costs started at $1 million Korean won ($1000 CAD). Now we do have travel medical insurance but that seemed rather steep so we asked if there was a walk-in clinic. He said yes, on the 2nd floor.

So we get in the elevator, go to the 2nd floor and the elevator door opens onto a parking garage. Across the cars we see a door on the other side so we walk over and it opens into what looks like a medical clinic.

Using some English and Google translate we are able to advise the nurses of our situation. They start by giving us tests for the flu and Covid 19. After paying $175 for the tests we find that we are both negative for the flu, that I am negative for COVID 19 but that John is positive.

We then see a doctor who examines us both and takes photos of our throats and nasal passages that he displays on a large screen… not a pretty sight. The doctor gives us tons of medications and puts us on a one hour IV drip for the fever. The doctor consult is about $200 CAD.

We spend the next 1 1/2 days in our Busan apartment with little improvement in our condition. We assume that I also have COVID and the doctor said my result may have been a false negative.

Fortunately the weather is cloudy, rainy and cold so we don’t feel as bad about not getting to tour around Busan.

On to Jeonju

On our last day in Busan we pay extra for a late check out so we can rest more and then head out onto the subway, fully masked, to Busan Central Bus Station, to get our bus to Jeonju. This express bus is luxurious. It has only three seats across so the seats are extra wide and very comfy and you can almost stretch out like you are in a bed. Every seat has a tv with movies, tv shows, music etc. and privacy drapes. The 3 hour trip goes by quickly.

Jeonju has the largest hanok village in Korea. A hancock is a village with very traditional Korean houses. The Jeonju Hanok Village still has about 700 traditional homes although many have been repurposed into stores, cafes and restaurants. Many people in Korea visit Jeonju because of the Village which is now surrounded by the much larger modern metropolis of Jeonju city.

We are staying right in the village at a traditional guest stay (yep sleeping on futons on the heated floor). The room is very basic – no table or chairs – just a bathroom and your futon mattresses. I ask for a second mattress as I find one futon too hard. The inn has sliding shoji doors that open out to a small pond and garden. All shoes are left outside.

Our inn is close to a beautifully illuminated bridge.

Traditional Supper in Jeonju

We head out to a traditional restaurant where food is cooked on a hot plate at your table. We are the only non-Koreans in the place. We order a pork belly dinner for two. Our host brings a ton of food and side dishes…she notices our looks of confusion of how and what gets cooked so she volunteers to cook for us…there is pork belly, kimchee, garlic, mushrooms and onions, that are fried and rolled into lettuce leafs with all kinds of other veggies. This is all washed down with a strong cinnamon rice wine.

Full and exhausted, we head back to our traditional home stay.

Exploring the Village on Monday

Today after breakfast with masks firmly attached, we head out to explore the village.

There are many rental places for traditional Korean formal dresswear and lots of people are dressed up. Most are Korean tourists, not Westerners, as Jeonju is a popular vacation spot for Koreans.

Pungnammun Gate

Our first stop is the Pungnammun Gate. It is the main entrance to Jeonju Hanok Village and the only one of four gates to survive the Japanese invasions. It was restored at the end of the 20th century.

Jeondong Catholic Church

We visit the Jeondong Catholic Church built on the grounds where some of the first adopters to Catholicism were beheaded.

Gyeonggijeon Shrine

We then take a tour of nearby Gyeonggijeon Shrine. Lots of people here are dressed up in the traditional dress.

Lunch

We stop in to PNB Bakery where I try one of their chocopies, which is like a whoopie pie.

Lunch is at the recommended Gogung which serves Jeonju’s signature dish: Bibimbap which is a rice dish with meat and vegetables stir fry and raw egg on top which you immediately stir in while the dish is at its hottest so it cooks into the rice.

Omokdae Shrine and Viewpoint

We next head up lots of stairs to the Omokdae Shrine and Viewpoint before climbing even higher to the Jaman Mural Village.

Jaman Mural Village

This residential hillside area is covered with murals of so many different styles. We stop in a cafe and relax, taking in the scenery.

Omokdae Gardens and Viewpoint

Rested up, we check out the Omokdae Gardens before heading back to our homestay for a rest.

Evening in Jeomju

We head to the night market at 5:30 pm but it is pretty quiet. I guess Monday nights are not big party nights in Jeonju.

The Pungnammun Gate is quite pretty, lit up at night.

We stop at a recommended dumpling place for supper before calling it a night.