Along the Wild Atlantic Way

On our way to Drombeg Stone Circle

Our accommodation in Kinsale, Long Quay House, has a great breakfast. I feast on smoked salmon and two cappuccinos… Yum!

It is cool but the sun is beaming again which looks gorgeous with the distant mists rising off the water.

We drive up into the hills, passing pastures, small towns and the occasional ancient stone defense tower or small castle. It is so green…so beautiful. From the high road we can see the heavy mists in the valley below.

Drombeg Stone Circle

Our first stop is Drombeg Stone Circle…which is similar to Stonehenge. Known as the Druids Altar, this structure, consisting of 17 standing stones, dates from 1100-800BC.

We have the whole place to ourselves, which is fabulous. Click here for a video of the Drombeg Stones and countryside.

On the Way to Mizen Head

We decide to add two or three hours to our drive to Killarney by detouring to Mizen Head which is the most southwesterly point of Ireland.

I am so glad that we rented a car because we are able to get off the beaten path and especially in Ireland, the journey is every bit as beautiful as the actual destinations.

Although at times the two way roads can be very narrow, John is enjoying the curvy, hilly drive.

Mizen Head

I can see why they call it the Wild Atlantic Way. The coastline is spectacular. I am sooooo glad we took this detour to Mizen Head.

The weather today changes every five minutes; brilliant sun, hazy sun, cloudy to the odd burst of rain or drizzle.

There are many pathways both up and down the cliffs, each offering a different vista. The rugged, untameable landscape leaves me breathless (not only by its beauty but also by the steep walk back up the cliff).

We visit the old radio station and lighthouse that once guided the ocean liners as they crossed the Atlantic Ocean.

The Walk to the Castle

After a brief stop in the reasonably priced cafe at Mizen Head we take a fifteen minute drive to the ruins of Dunlough Castle. At over 800 years old, it is considered to be one of the oldest Norman castles in this part of Ireland. Apparently the place is haunted by a bride that threw herself off a cliff after her father accidently killed her new husband.

We park at the coastline in the middle of nowhere but the sign points to a path leading to the castle. We walk uphill through pastures of sheep. Even when the sheep are not to be seen, we still have to stay cognizant of the festering landmines they leave in their wake.

The ground can be quite boggy in places. John has a misadventure at one point…click here to see a video.

Other parts are very steep and we have to be careful not to grab the barbed wire part of the fence when we pull ourselves up the path.

Everywhere we look, there is a gorgeous view and not another person to be seen. All worries seem to disappear and I am totally happy…pure heaven!

The path keeps going on with no castle to be seen until we breast another hill and there it stands in brooding solitude.

At the Castle

We take some time to explore the ancient ruins. Click here to see a short video.

On our 40 minute return walk, I attempt to show off my technique in passing through an especially boggy area. Spoiler alert: it doesn’t end well. Click here for the video. (Please excuse my use of the English and German language…I may have even thrown in a Gaelic word I recently learned)

We return to the car for a two and a quarter hour drive to Killarney.

Trip to Killarney

We pass through lush countryside and small villages, each one quainter than the last. Often the roads are quite narrow.

In the car I take off my shoes and my wet socks give off a strange, organic odour…not gagworthy, just strange. It suddenly comes to us that the smell is coming from outside…someone is burning something.

Three hours after we leave the castle parking lot, we arrive at our accommodations…an apartment with kitchen and a washer/dryer.

Our host is a lovely man with a strong Irish accent. He is adorable and reminds us a bit of a leprechaun.

We are hoping to go out to hear some more traditional Irish music after we do some wash.

Sunday Night in Killarney

Killarney is a happening place. Our friend Mikie recommended sunday night at the Grand Hotel for traditional Irish music. The place is packed, the musicians are playing, the singers are singing and people are dancing. Click here to check the video. What a perfect way to end an amazing day.