Exploring the Renialia Reserve (Spiny Forest)
Arrival at the Reserve
We are up at 4:30am for our last full day in Ifaty. Today we have booked a birding tour starting at 5:00am.
It is Saturday morning (Halloween). From the window in the bathroom I can hear popular music pumping and the voices of people still partying in the village. People are the same all over the world. In my twenties, that might have been me.
We head to the road in front of the hotel where our zebu cart taxi is waiting in the cool morning air. We have a specialized birding guide named Johnny.
I gracefully (NOT) board the zebu cart and we are on our way.
Baobabs at Dawn
Dawn is starting to break as we arrive at the Reniala Reserve. This is the same reserve we visited yesterday (also called the Spiny Forest) but we will be in a different section for the birding. The ancient baobab trees look mystical in the rising light. It is like they’ve been waiting to greet us. We are the only ones here. We seem to have the place to ourselves.
Octopus Trees (tall cactus trees) and their sharp thorns reach to the sky. The Reserve is also inhabited by many Fony Baobabs. They look like baobabs but have leaves. The patriarch of the Reserve is an estimated 1500 year old Fony Baobab. Aloes and and many types of cactus also grow in the 60 hectare Reserve.
A group of baobabs look like they could be having a family gathering.
Morning Wildlife
The lack of large amounts of leaves makes the birds easy to spot. A cuckoo sings from the top of an Octopus Tree. Click here for a short video.
Johnny points out an adorable Vasa Parrot searching a tree for breakfast.
I don’t know how he does it, but Johnny spots a gecko hiding between two very close trunks.
A Torotoroka Scops Owl nestles protected in a cactus tree, eyes closing after a busy night. Every now and then he gives us an irritated look; reminds me of my son Cameron in the morning.
A Spotted Lemur also hides in a tree, already sleeping the day away. If not pointed out, I would miss him with his fur being the same colour as the bark.
Malagasy Forest Cat
Johnny is very excited to point out what looks like a house cat poised quietly in the brush, waiting to snag unsuspecting prey. In fact this is not a housecat but a feral Malagasy Forest Cat which is a descendant of domestic cats brought to Madagascar by Arab traders about the 9th century AD. They eat birds, reptiles, rodents and even small lemurs.
Excitement on the Bird Front
Johnny receives a phone call from his spotter and tells us we have to hurry. Suddenly we are running through the spiny forest. For the first time I see three other people moving in the same direction.
We are told to stop and stay in the same area while the two guides and three spotters run into the bush to herd a Long Tailed Ground Roller into our area. This bird is not the best flyer but he is a very fast runner. Apparently this is the must see bird in the Reserve and difficult to find. Johnny says this bird is “the President” of the Reserve. The Ground Roller is endemic to Madagascar and on the ‘vulnerable’ list, one down from ‘endangered’.
Watch Where You Step
When we leave the area, I almost step on a shoelace lying in the bright, red sand. Then it moves. It is a Sand Snake.
More Distinguished Baobabs
Johnny shows us a large baobab tree that he says, while chuckling, is female because it has breasts. My John helpfully points out their location.
I am rather attracted to another baobab that appears to be lounging.
Chameleons and Spiders
Chameleons being kings of camouflage are the hardest to spot, but Johnny finds us many, including a Warty Chameleon and a Big Headed Chameleon with its spiky spine.
John takes a photo of a huge, black Huntsman Spider about the size of a hand. All the spiders in Madagascar are non-venomous as are the snakes, frogs, toads, lizards & insects.
Back in the Zebu Cart
More people arrive as we leave the Reserve. I buy a chameleon souvenir from one of the souvenir hawkers, then board the xebu cart for the ride back. Click here for a short video of my boarding technique.
Day at Ifaty Beach
We are back at Bella Donna Hotel in time for a 9:30am breakfast. The wind has died down. The rest of the morning is spent walking along the beach. A young boy runs up and starts practicing his English. John practices his French. It is quite cute.
We decide to walk back to Chez Freddy’s for lunch. I read that Freddy was a chef at one of the hotel’s before starting on his own. I ask the waiter about Freddy and the next thing we know, Freddy shows up at our table. We tell him that this is our second time at his restaurant and we enjoy his food. After our meal he sends over two very large 
shots of strawberry rum. I feel a bit tipsy when we walk back to the hotel.
I have booked a poolside massage for the afternoon. I ask for a firm massage and get one. My body feels good afterwards.
After a shower, I join John at the beach for sunset and for dinner have fresh fish in a lemon sauce followed by the French version of a chocolate lava cake.
