Isalo National Park
Visit to Isalo National Park
It’s early morning when we leave the Jardin du Roi Hotel for the 20 minute drive to Isalo National Park. We pick up our guide, Dada in the village. I have my walking sticks, binoculars and lots of water. It’s 8 am and already hot.
Isalo National Park is considered Madagascar’s Grand Canyon. This park was established in 1962 and is 190,000 acres. It is Madagascar’s most visited protected area.
The park protects a huge, Jurassic sandstone mastiff which drops into a 200 metre deep canyon filled with lush vegetation and a stream.
Park Wildlife
There are a number of different types of wildlife here including lemurs, snakes, lizards, chameleons and different types of birds.
There are no venomous snakes in Madagascar. We see lemurs as soon as we get to the camping and picnic area.
Dada points out a tree covered in what looks like huge lady bugs but I find out that they are large sap sucking insects called scale
He also shows us a bug that looks like a little white flower. It later evolves into what looks like a red or gold leaf.
Along a rock on the stream we see a Lateral Water Snake hunting for frogs.
A Madagascar Buzzard looks down from the trees, hoping to spot lunch.
Zebu in Malagasy Culture
Along the hike, Dada explains that the indigenous cattle farming Bara tribe use hidden caves as sacred burial sites. The area is kept private from tourists. The dead are placed in crevices temporarily until the family saves enough for an elaborate funeral. The bones are then moved to a permanent tomb higher in the cliffs that is tightly sealed with heavy stones.
Dada further explains that Zebu are an indicator of wealth and status in Malagasy culture. They are a spiritual bridge between the living and ancestors. They are sacrificed at weddings, circumcisions and funerals. In some tribes, at funerals herds are sacrificed and the horns mounted on the tombs. Zebu work in the fields and also pull carts. They are also an integral part of Malagasy cuisine. Some young men prove their virility, courage and strength by hanging onto the hump of a charging Zebu. Zebu bones, hide and horns are turned into musical instruments, utensils and other arts and crafts. In weddings, Zebu are used as a bargaining tool between the bride and groom’s family.
The Blue and Dark Pools
We continue climbing and descending along the trail until we reach small waterfalls at the blue pool and fifty metres away, the black pool. They are absolutely gorgeous. Large hot pink and vibrant blue dragonflies fill the air. Click here for a short video of the Blue Pool.
Carnivorous Plants
On our way back, Dada points out a large number of carnivorous plants in the cliff wall.
Hiking to the Picnic Area
We are given the choice of a challenging climb from the canyon to the very dry, sunny top of the cliff or heading back to the picnic area. It is very hot out so we both choose the picnic area.
Visitor in the Out House
I am deciding whether to use the out house or wait till we get back to the hotel. One of the guides opens the building door and shows us a very large boa constrictor lounging in the corner.
It turns out it’s not an outhouse but a storage building so for two reasons it is good that I chose to wait till we get back to the hotel.
BBQ Picnic
After checking out more birds and chameleons in the area, we are ushered to a tap to wash our hands and then taken to a table where we are served a delicious chicken and zebu bbq lunch before heading back to our gorgeous hotel.
On our way out of the park, I spot a few beautiful purple/blue butterflies. Try as we might, both Zack and I are unable to get a good picture.
The Queen
Beside the road, Zack points out a rock shaped like a queen sitting on her throne. It reminds me of a similar rock silhouette we saw in Taiwan.
Afternoon at the Hotel Jardin du Roi
After a refreshing swim in the pool followed by a shower, I relax on our patio and watch the nearby horses. Some adorable lizards lounge on the rocks by our door, taking in the rays of the late afternoon sun.
Window of Isalo
At 5:00pm, Zack picks us up to take us to the Window of Isalo to watch the sunset. The golden afternoon sun highlights so many different colours in the rock faces. This place really reminds me of Uluru in so many ways.
At the window we speak to a couple from England. They feel like kindred spirits and we decide to meet up for dinner.
The sunset is spectacular. I spot a large golden globe spider patrolling her huge web.
We meet up with the couple we met at sunset, Laura and Tim, for drinks before heading to supper. It is a very enjoyable evening.
