Morondava to Antsirabe

Morning at the Island Fisherman’s Village

I wake up feeling off. My tummy is upset and I have no appetite and I am hot. Not sure if that is the weather or if it is me. I am able to eat a banana and hard boiled egg for breakfast.

Our guide Tony lives in Morondava. From our hotel we walk with Tony to an inlet where an outrigger canoe is waiting with two paddlers. We all get in and paddle through the inlet towards the ocean. Mangrove forests line the shore and we see many bright blue headed kingfishers in the trees as we glide past. Fishing boats in various states of repair fot the water bank.  

Crossing the water, we land at an island that has a fishing village of over 6000 people. Tony takes us for a walk through the village where we see the inhabitants’ every day life. It’s very peaceful as no vehicles are on the island.

Madagascar Sun Protection

I have noticed in coastal Madagascar that some women go about with a light coloured grainy mask over their faces. Tony tells us that it is a beauty mask, a natural sunscreen from grated tree bark mixed with water which protects their skin.

On the Road Again

We return to the hotel where we say goodbye to Tony as we are switching guides for the next segment of our trip.

Our new guide is Zack and he will also be our driver. Zack is the son of the owner of the tour company we booked –  Madagascar Green Tours. I am still feeling off so I am relieved when Zack informs us that we have already done the worst roads on our drive to and from Tsingy. The rest of the roads are paved – Hallelujah – but still with some bad sections.

It is still morning and already 34°C. I take a half Gravol just in case. Around 10:00am we head of with Zack in his Toyota Landcruiser jeep. It will be a two day drive heading east from Morondava into the central highlands with an overnight stop in Miamdrivazo. 

There must be an army base just outside town because a group of soldiers are jogging down the road. Just behind them, a soldier supports another who is throwing up into a ditch. Poor guy.

Zack is very easy to chat with and lets me know that I can use the jeep’s Bluetooth. So the tunes are going as we drive through the countryside and the changing landscape.

Local Traffic all Loaded Up

Once outside of Morondava there are hardly any vehicles on the road. Other than local buses we saw maybe ten other vehicles coming the opposite way the whole day.

The public transit consists of vans that load up with people & their goods and can be quite the sight. We are continually amazed at how packed these vans get… both with people and the luggage, sacks, boxes and bicycles piled on the roof. Zack tells us that the locals call them “sardine buses” as passengers are packed in like sardines in a can. Some are so full that people are bulging out of windows and doors.

Trucks are also loaded not only inside but on the roofs. Even ox carts and individuals are loaded to the max. I wonder where everyone is going. 

Market Days in the Villages

Villages have different market days. We can tell an upcoming village is having a market day because of all the people walking beside the road heading in the same direction. Often they are many kilometers away from the village. 

Religion in Madagascar

There are often small churches. Madagascar is mostly Christian (mostly Catholic) with a small percentage of Muslims. Some people practice nature worship believing natural places and animals have spiritual powers.

School Kids

We pass public school kids in matching coloured outfits walking home from their school. 

The six hour drive passes quickly due to all the people watching, good conversation and great tunes playing on the jeep stereo.

Feeling Ill

By 5:00pm we arrive to our hotel which is in the town of Miamdrivazo located in the west-central  region of Madagascar. The town name means “I am waiting for my wife”. It is in a farming area (tobacco , cotton and Zebu breeding) on the banks of the Mahajilo and Mania Rivers. This town is said to be the hottest town in Madagascar because of its low elevation valley climate.

I was fine in the jeep but when I get out I feel hot, nauseous and get a slight headache. The hotel serves a nice supper but I can only take a few bites. I feel awful. I have a low fever. I tell John that I want to go home. I take a Tylenol, hydration salts and am in bed by 8:00pm.

A Much Better Morning

Miraculously, I feel better in the morning. We head out at 7:30am for another 6 hour drive. This time I sit in the front seat and feel more comfortable and less nauseous. I happily go back to people and landscape watching.

We have to stop from time to time when a herd of Zebu or sheep cross the road.

As we rise into the highlands, the scenery changes. In one area we see people mining by hand for gold.

Changing Landscape

We pass many lush green fields and terraces of rice. The landscape is ever changing. 

I spot beautiful Madagascar Bee Eaters. Zack stops so that I can get a good shot.

The road curves up into the Madagascar central highlands. Click here for a short video.

Arrival in Antsirabe

And suddenly we arrive into Madagascar’s 3rd largest city, Antsirabe. My appetite is back and we have a delicious lunch of shrimp and fresh vegetables. Portions are generous in the restaurants.

Our hotel is nearby. We check in and drop off our dirty laundry at the front desk. While John is showering, I explore the property and pool area. I discover a spa and promptly book an after dinner 7:00pm massage. Life is good.