Antsirabe to Ranomafana National Park

Morning at the Pharmacy

Baba Solomon, the owner of Madagascar Green Tours, pops by to greet us as we leave the hotel in Antisarbe. He is a friendly man, just like his son Zack. After some discussion, Zack takes us to a pharmacy where after Zack explains the situation, the pharmacist brings out a couple alternative options for malaria prevention medication. Unfortunately they don’t have Malarone,(which we used without bad side effects in the past), but they do have Doxycycline which we buy. Our pharmacist back home emails us an article on how to transition between the two drugs.

Rice Farming and Houses

And then we are on our way. It is about a seven hour drive to Ranomafana National Park. Once again we see a change in the landscape to even lusher fields of rice and so many other different produce. Most of Madigascar harvests their rice once a year except for this area which has two harvests.

People are working in the fields and Egrets hang out in the fields without people.Houses in this area are made of brick and often have designs and patterns incorporated into the facade.

People of Madagascar

Zack tells us that one of his favourite things about Madagascar is the people’s joy of life despite Madagascar being a poor country. That joy is apparent in people’s easy smiles and friendly manners.

Zack tells us that there are eighteen different tribes/ethnic groups across Madagascar. They all share the Malagasy language but with their own dialect. They also share a core belief in ancestral veneration. Family values and connection is generally strong here. It is easy to see. In Madagascar death is not considered the end but a transition to a higher spiritual state. The deceased are considered intermediaries between their families and a higher being possessing a power to affect daily life such as weather, prosperity and fertility if respected and the opposite if not. Pleasing and honoring the deceased is part of daily life.

Families invest in a sacred tomb (often costing more than their own homes). Every five to 10 years the tomb is reopened and bones taken out, wrapped in fresh silk shrouds and perfumed. It is actually a joyous celebration, often three days where people dance to live music with the remains and introduce them to new family members before returning them with gifts to the tomb. Zack tells us that it is quite expensive and some people no longer do it.

Afternoon on the Road

We stop for lunch in a village known for its wood carving artisans. We have a lighter lunch and watch local dancers before heading back on the road.

As afternoon grows older, the sun turns the houses and countryside golden and the rice fields a vibrant green. It is beautiful.

Place of Break

We make a brief break at a lookout called the “Place of Break” to check out the view and stretch our legs. As we get closer to the rainforest bright pink wild roses and trumpet flowers are abundant along the roadside. We often drive along the river passing waterfalls.

Water Collection

We notice children pushing small platforms on wheels that carry water jugs. They are coming to and from springs or streams where they collect water to take back to their family.

Night Walk near Ranomafana National Park

Shortly before nightfall (5:45pm) we arrive near Ranomafana National Park and meet up with our local nature guide for a night walk.

We hear the Madagascar Cuckoo’s distinct call. This lazy bird is known for waiting for other birds to vacate their nests, then swooping in and laying their own eggs.

It doesn’t take long for us to see the nocturnal mouse lemur which is the smallest of the lemurs species. They are attracted to the banana our guide rubs on the tree. Click here for a short video.

Night is the time to see chameleons because they are awake during the day and are too well hidden. They are easier to find when sleeping on branches or leaves at night as a flashlight can outline their silhouette. I am impressed with how well our guide spots these creatures. We see a number of different chameleons and a tree frog. The night sounds of the rainforest are so soothing and I make some recordings.

I am exhausted when we check into our lodge for the night. We have a light supper and head straight to our cabin.