Ranomafana National Park and Village

Morning at the Cabin

I wake early (5:00 am). Because we checked into the lodge after dark, I have no idea what our surroundings look like. When I open our cabin door, I am delighted to see that we are beside a river, looking out onto rain forest. I grab a chair on our patio to take it all in.

I hear the mournful moo of a zebu in the distance. The sparrows are happily chirping away. Despite the early hour, a woman is washing laundry in the river. The sun is out and you can tell it’s going to get hot.

Ranomafana National Park

We dress in our safari pants, hiking boots and long sleeve shirts. Zack and our park guide meet us after breakfast and we head to Ranomafana National Park. Ranomafana in Malagasy means “hot water” due to the natural hot springs in the village we are staying in.

I am so excited today.

Ranomafana National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site under  Rain Forests of Atsinanana. It is one of Madagascar’s most famous, biologically diverse, protected areas. The park spans 41,600 hectors of lush and steamy tropical rain forest.

The park was created in 1991 after a new and endangered species of lemur was discovered in 1986. The Golden Bamboo Lemur eats toxic bamboo shoots containing lethal levels of cyandide…yet is unaffected. Today the park is an international hub for evolutionary research. Groups also work with the local communities for preservation. This park is home to a large number of animals and plants that are found no where else on earth.

I am so glad I brought my walking sticks and binoculars. Even with the sticks, I am grateful for our guide’s help maneuvering up, down and through the forest. It is hot and sticky but we have so many great sightings including the famous Golden Bamboo Lemur eating the toxic leaves. His two pointy teeth (fangs? incisors?) clearly on display. The lemurs make a soft grunty sound. Click here for a short video.

We also spot a lone Greater Bamboo Lemur which is critically endangered. He is sleeping so does not move much.

Along our hike we also see a Madagascar Jumping Frog and a highly camouflaged Satanic Leaf Tailed Gecko. I don’t know how our guide can spot these creatures. There are many endemic rare orchids and giant tree ferns. It is very hot and steamy. Although truly enjoyable, by the end of the half day hike, we are both very sweaty. 

Ranomafana Village and Vanilla Plantation

We head back to the lodge for quick showers and a change of clothes. We have another delicious lunch before Zack picks us up.

Madagascar is the world’s top provider of vanilla and it’s Bourbon Vanilla is arguably the best. At the beginning of our tour, I informed our tour company that seeing and purchasing high quality vanilla is a high priority for me. There are lots of street hawkers selling vanilla but I want the really good stuff.

This afternoon, Zack takes us through the edge of the town (Ranomafana) to an organic vanilla plantation. The walk to get there is gorgeous. We cross picturesque wooden bridges over streams. Ducks, chickens and rice terraces are along the route. Colourful flowers are everywhere.

When we arrive at the plantation a lady greets us. She first shows us a beautiful, wild Parsons Chameleon before taking us to some of the vanilla plants. Click here for a short video. She tells us that each vanilla flower in Madagascar needs to be pollinated by hand on the first day it opens in order for it to turn into a vanilla pod. Click here for a short video on how it is done. She explains how everything is organically done and how weather can destroy a crop. I can see why vanilla is so expensive. It was really interesting… And yes, I bought vanilla. Lots.

Evening at the Cabin

We have a beautiful walk back. Both John and I notice that all the chickens we’ve seen in Madagascar seem to have much longer legs than our chickens.

We spend a relaxed afternoon and evening at our cabin where I work on the blog and watch life on the river. Click here for a short video.